What effect does wave refraction have on coastal erosion?

What effect does wave refraction have on coastal erosion?

• A. It increases erosion on all coastlines
• B. It alters wave energy focusing on specific areas
• C. It has no effect on erosion
• D. It only affects rocky coastlines

Answer: (B)

Wave refraction significantly influences coastal erosion by altering the distribution of wave energy across different areas of the shoreline. As waves approach the coastline, they encounter shallower water, which slows down the part of the wave that feels the bottom first. This causes the wave to bend, concentrating energy on areas where the coastline is irregular or where there are protruding landforms such as headlands. The increased wave energy in these specific areas can lead to intensified erosion, as they can more effectively wear away rock and sediment. Conversely, in areas where the wave energy is dispersed, such as bays or indentations, the erosion is typically less severe. Wave refraction therefore creates a dynamic process whereby certain parts of the coastline may experience more rapid erosion compared to others, making it a vital consideration in coastal geography and management.

Wave refraction significantly influences coastal erosion by altering the distribution of wave energy across different areas of the shoreline. As waves approach the coastline, they encounter shallower water, which slows down the part of the wave that feels the bottom first. This causes the wave to bend, concentrating energy on areas where the coastline is irregular or where there are protruding landforms such as headlands.

The increased wave energy in these specific areas can lead to intensified erosion, as they can more effectively wear away rock and sediment. Conversely, in areas where the wave energy is dispersed, such as bays or indentations, the erosion is typically less severe. Wave refraction therefore creates a dynamic process whereby certain parts of the coastline may experience more rapid erosion compared to others, making it a vital consideration in coastal geography and management.